goodusername
Perma Banned
I don't remember you posting that before. I must have had you on ignore at the time
Give me the dates and I'll PM any insults you may have missed reading.
Hey Euro's its that time again
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Give me the dates and I'll PM any insults you may have missed reading.
the_huge
Theoretically Chaotic
So...you need some hand surgery too, the huge? That´s cool. Hope it´s not your right hand: if it´s your left you can use your right and I can have my left, we will be a perfect duo -if you´re into fusion avantgarde. It will probably sound like avantgarde anyhow.
Cool is not a word that I would use to describe the situation, but no matter. It is indeed my left (fretting) hand that is damaged. The big problem with the idea of an avantgarde duo is that I'm afraid I'm not terrible avant. I was raised to be firmly of the school of thought that suggested that all that was needed was the 'holy trinity' of I,IV,V. I thought and played this way for many years, until I reached a form of enlightenment that made me realise that in actual fact, the IV is an entirely optional extra. Can we invent diddley-fusion?
Phlat Phive
First Position Strummer
I'm pretty sure I've mentioned it but...
I was using one of these:
You see that yellow bit at the top? Someone had removed it and as I was in a hurry, I didn't bother to replace it as it was late and I only needed to cut one sheet.
My right hand clipped the blade and I cut through the top of 3 fingers. It was about twenty odd years ago; I've only fairly recently (3/4 years) picked up the guitar again and found a few workrounds so I can still play
That sounds really shit.
What workarounds have you found?
I'm pretty sure I've mentioned it but...
I was using one of these:
You see that yellow bit at the top? Someone had removed it and as I was in a hurry, I didn't bother to replace it as it was late and I only needed to cut one sheet.
My right hand clipped the blade and I cut through the top of 3 fingers. It was about twenty odd years ago; I've only fairly recently (3/4 years) picked up the guitar again and found a few workrounds so I can still play
The interesting thing is that I thought that European table saws had much better safety equipment than the ones we have here in the U.S.
I have one of these and my manhood has been called into question due to my unwillingness to remover the blade guard and anti kickback pawls.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00921829000P
The family member in person is also missing part of his thumb to his own table saw, though. I need my fingers more than I need validation
Phlat Phive
First Position Strummer
Looks like the move to modal music would be quite easy, then. Harmony is overrated anyway.
Phlat Phive
First Position Strummer
The interesting thing is that I thought that European table saws had much better safety equipment than the ones we have here in the U.S.
I have one of these and my manhood has been called into question due to my unwillingness to remover the blade guard and anti kickback pawls.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00921829000P
The family member in person is also missing part of his thumb to his own table saw, though. I need my fingers more than I need validation
I would never, ever, pay any attention to anyone who says it's "manlier" to operate heavy machinery without the proper safety measures. I had model workshop instructions in college, and the guys teaching me there were all proper metal & woodworkers, and they would've kicked your arse if you'd brought up how manly it is to work without protection.
* checks and reminds himself this is the Euro thread and not the "Cowboy American Woodworkers with fewer fingers than they came from the factory with" thread. *
goodusername
Perma Banned
Telling people it's not my fault my playing is crap; I'm disabled. Then I sue them for discrimination.
Seriously though, the worst damaged was my index finger so when I re-started guitar I was limited to barre chords. I might add my playing wasn't great before the accident; I'm better now than before.
Some complex chord shapes are beyond me and I tend to play with two fingers when playing riffs/solos.
goodusername
Perma Banned
Exactly right. Professionals need all their fingers; whatever their profession. Amateurs and idiots remove guards for no good reason.
I'm quite happy to acknowledge I was soundly in the idiot camp.
goodusername
Perma Banned
Not that I'm aware of, the one in the pic is fully compliant afaik.
2manband
Kick Henry Jackassowski
If I'm not mistaken, European saws (at least new ones) aren't capable of making "blind" cuts - like Dado's for instance, where the blade doesn't come all the way through the workpiece, which would prevent you from using the riving knife, anti kickback pawls, and blade guard. If the injury in question occured years ago, there may not have been much difference at that time.
Probably safer, but I suppose you'd have to use a router or something else for those types of cuts.
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goodusername
Perma Banned
I guess woodworker forums are just like guitar forums, then
Moaning about Chinese imports?
cnc router vs chisel brigades?
Oh.
I have a long straight edge/fence thing for cutting sheets with my circular saw and I can never get it to work right.....I must put too much pressure on the saw and it always drifts. I'd have problems using a router with the fence, I think.
I'll need to woodshed my technique
2manband
Kick Henry Jackassowski
Oh.
I have a long straight edge/fence thing for cutting sheets with my circular saw and I can never get it to work right.....I must put too much pressure on the saw and it always drifts. I'd have problems using a router with the fence, I think.
I'll need to woodshed my technique
If I'm making a long cut with a straight edge and a circular saw (like on a sheet of plywood), I always snap a chalk line too so that you have a visual reference to tell if you're causing the straight edge to flex.
THE EUROTHREAD HAS BECOME THE WOODWORKERS THREAD!!! MUWAHAHAHAHAHA
goodusername
Perma Banned
This is on sale new, it looks like the guard would be held on with the usual clamp bolt for easy removal. I'm not in the trade so I can't speak with any firm authority.
Phlat Phive
First Position Strummer
2manband
Kick Henry Jackassowski
This is on sale new, it looks like the guard would be held on with the usual clamp bolt for easy removal. I'm not in the trade so I can't speak with any firm authority.
That looks like a nice saw - sliding table!
I'm no authority either, I just remember reading about this somewhere. Here's some info from Wiki:
American style cabinet saws differ in design from European style cabinet saws. American style saws generally follow the model of the Delta Unisaw, a design that has evolved since 1939. Saws of this general type are made in the USA, Canada and China. These saws are characterized by a cast iron top on a full-length steel base, square in section, with radiused corners. Two 3/8" deep by 3/4" wide miter slots are located parallel to the blade, one to the left of the blade and one to the right. The most common type of rip fence mounted to this type of saw is characterized by the standard model made by Biesemeyer. This very sturdy, steel T-type fence mounts to a steel rail at the front of the saw. It has replaceable laminate faces. American cabinet saws are normally designed to accept a 13/16" wide stacked dado blade in addition to a standard saw blade. The most common size of blade capacity is 10" in diameter. The blade arbor has a diameter of 5/8". American saws normally include an anti-kickback device that incorporates a splitter, toothed anti-kickback pawls and a clear plastic blade cover. American style saws have an easily replaceable insert around the blade in the table top. This allows the use of zero-clearance inserts, which greatly reduce tearout on the bottom of the workpiece. It is common for this type of saw to be equipped with a table extension that increases ripping capacity for sheet goods. American style table saws are commonly available with the option of left or right tilt blade capability. While relatively simple in design, these saws are highly evolved and capable of efficient and precision work.
European style cabinet saws are often more complex and modern in design compared to American types. They often are equipped with a sliding table to make cross cuts easier and safer than by the use of an American style miter gauge. Unless modified for the American market, European table saws are not equipped to allow the use of a stacked dado blade set (this is due to safety laws in European markets). Rip fences on European saws tend to be of lighter construction and less smooth in operation compared to American cabinet saws. European cabinet saws are often available in multi-purpose tool configurations that can offer jointer, planer, shaper or boring features. The blade arbor typically has a diameter of 30mm, though for the American market a 5/8" arbor is commonly available as an option. Note that American woodworkers are likely to use a stacked dado blade to cut dados (square sectioned grooves) where European woodworkers might use a shaper or other tool for this task. European cabinet saws often incorporate a riving knife to prevent kickback. Riving knives differ from American style splitters in that they rise and fall with the blade (splitters are fixed in place without regard for the height that the blade is adjusted to). European cabinet saws often offer as an option a scoring blade, which is a second, smaller diameter blade mounted in front of the regular saw blade. The scoring blade helps reduce splintering in certain types of stock, especially laminated stock.
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