The Explorer Kit Guitar Project

It's crazy. I found it extremely difficult to find a set of Epi ProBuckers used but I scored a set of real BurstBuckers for $100 out of an Epi Thunderhorse Explorer and have seen other sets for not much more. LOL

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Chad said:
enough typing, get building :mad:

:grin:
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LOL Still waiting on the bridge so I can line up the neck and glue it.

The actual build might take a little bit as I'm in the process of moving in with my parents temporarily while we save up the security deposit for a new place.

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I remember having to do a pretty decent shim job on the GF LP kit I did. Probably 2mm of play.
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newbuilder said:
I remember having to do a pretty decent shim job on the GF LP kit I did. Probably 2mm of play.
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Oh, definitely nowhere near that much. It's just enough that the angle of the neck needs to be checked before allowing the neck to set but the neck will be located properly without any real lateral motion at the heel.
 
That neck pocket on the LP kit made me want to warn everyone to be careful buying those kits from GF. That makes it hard for first timers to put together. I may have gotten an oddball though.
 
baimun said:
Getting something that fits properly from GF is the oddball, not the other way around.
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Their hardware and bolt-on stuff seems OK to me. No experience with their set neck kits, though.

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I've given them multiple chances. Brass trem blocks that didn't fit, inconsistently built pickups, parts with dimples and blemishes in the chrome, but the icing on the cake was the tele body that was supposed to be "translucent green with a few cosmetic blemishes" and what arrived was an opaque GI Joe green body with so many scratches and marks on the body that it looked like it was pulled from a dumpster. It wasn't even worth trying to sand and repaint because it felt like a piece of styrofoam.
 
baimun said:
I've given them multiple chances. Brass trem blocks that didn't fit, inconsistently built pickups, parts with dimples and blemishes in the chrome, but the icing on the cake was the tele body that was supposed to be "translucent green with a few cosmetic blemishes" and what arrived was an opaque GI Joe green body with so many scratches and marks on the body that it looked like it was pulled from a dumpster. It wasn't even worth trying to sand and repaint because it felt like a piece of styrofoam.
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Well, fortunately my kit didn't come from them. LOL

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I know it's preferred to use Titebond I over II or III.

What would you guys recommend to tighten up the holes drilled for the bridge slightly? I just want to make sure they're in there good and tight. I haven't pushed them all he way in but it didn't seem like it would take much more than hand pressure to do so.

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jelloman said:
Do you mean the threaded inserts? I had good success with an epoxy wood filler...
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Yeah. I have a feeling that if I applied finish to the area that it would probably tighten things up. It's THAT close, at least using the supplied inserts. The inserts that came with the TonePros set are just lose in there, so I'm going to use the supplied inserts (after I test threaded the TonePros studs in the kit inserts).
 
Now, I have a TonePros bridge and tailpiece that's a drop-in for your regular import setup, including the 11mm bushings.

However, it seems that this body is drilled for 13mm bushings bridge and tailpiece.

The three options I've come up with:
  1. Find 13mm bushings threaded for the metric studs
  2. Use the bushings that came with the kit's cheap-o bridge, which thread perfectly with the TonePros set's studs
  3. Dowel the body and redrill the holes
#1 would be the hybrid easy/ideal solution, not requiring any wood work but having a quality bushing. #2 would be just easy. I'm trying to avoid #3 since I want to do a transparent finish but it is a workable solution.


Any help finding 13mm bushings drilled for metric studs? @dougk? @telecaster911? @Elias Graves? @newbuilder?
 
I would be completely happy with #2. If you want to throw tons of money at it, a machine shop can make you anything you want.
 
Peeker said:
yeah, I'd go #2 as well. *snicker*
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I was going #2 when I initially read this this morning. LOL

Bob411 said:
I would be completely happy with #2. If you want to throw tons of money at it, a machine shop can make you anything you want.
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You think it would cost a lot to knurl 13mm rod stock, drill a hole in the center, and thread it to M8x1.25?

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