The Bicycle / Biking Gear Thread

Was walking by the bike store and had a couple bucks in my pocket. For the price, I couldn't resist, for more back ups, to have on hand, etc. Or maybe to just use.

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Good but inexpensive trunk rack for two bikes...for a Honda Element.

I've searched teh interwebz, but am lacking confidence in anything around my budget ($100). The Thule's are well regarded, but expensive. Saris has some nice stuff, but the Element is a unique vehicle as far as fitting goes.
 
Good but inexpensive trunk rack for two bikes...for a Honda Element.

I've searched teh interwebz, but am lacking confidence in anything around my budget ($100). The Thule's are well regarded, but expensive. Saris has some nice stuff, but the Element is a unique vehicle as far as fitting goes.
Trunk rack? ie, the strap on kind? Hmm. I haven't used one of those in a while. Saris seems to be well regarded. But I have no personal experience. Seems to me the key to that kind is to keep checking on the straps from time to time.
 
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Trunk rack? ie, the strap on kind? Hmm. I haven't used one of those in a while. Saris seems to be well regarded. But I have no personal experience. Seems to me the key to that kind is to keep checking on the straps from time to time.

Yeah, I'm not worried about the straps, it's just that the Element's hatch is vertical and split (with the bottom opening like a pickup truck), so I'm not sure how regular units will work. We don't have a hitch (getting one is another $150 or more dollars) or a roof rack (also another $200 investment). I'm just looking for something to take my a couple of bikes to RI and back to VA in August. We're also looking at a new car in the next fiscal year, so I don't want to invest in adding things to the Element...but we'll see.
 
Thanks. I have been watching vid along those lines. This bike has bar end shifters, so focusing also on any differences there. I may go ahead and try one wrap before the new levers, because the wrap is only a buck, and it might not hurt to practice once.

EDIT: I like RJ the Bike Guy's videos on bar wrap, as I like most of his. He has a no muss, no fuss style that seems practical and helpful.

thumbs up on RJ here too. He has good sensible videos without a lot of bull in them. Not always the best but consistently good in my books.
 
Got the bars swapped. But I may have goofed up one of the barcon shifters in the process. Can't get it to have any friction when I put it back together. I had to lube stuff up to get the bolt that loosens the internal clamp to move, and either I got some lube in the ratchet/friction part, or I, when I started to remove a screw I didn't need to on the ratchet lever, loosened some internal stuff and something isn't lined up right. I am hearing now a little ratchet sound that was not there before, like a mini socket wrench. And no friction. The other side, where I did not remove the screw, is working fine. Learning process here. The new bar looks like it will be nice though.

Cleaned up the brake hoods too, though they are going to be replaced anyway. Looks lots better. All that cable will be taped to the inside of the bar, following the curves.
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This is the side that is working, but it is identical to the other side. They are not left or right. The part hanging out of the housing has some ratchet parts inside, and that is what is not getting any friction to hold up the lever when it is shifted to the higher cogs.
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A little something to help us out with those mystery noises.

Bicycle Bike Noises, Clicks, Ticks, Creaks, Clunks, Knocks Repair by Jim Langley
http://www.jimlangley.net/wrench/keepitquiet.html#other
Thanks. My Kona has a creak right now, either in the rear suspension or triangle, bottom bracket, or seatpost. Looks like there are some tips there for tracking that down. Also, I have heard using some Buzzy's Slick Honey on dropper posts, if necessary, can help.
 
Bike guys, any preference on chains? Looks like I need a new 10 speed chain for my Cannondale. I've never bought a chain the old steel still has the original chain from 1982 on it...and surprisingly it only has a bit more wear than the new bike. I think I will change the new one though because it's a more high performance bike and I take it on longer harder rides. They get similar amounts of riding a week but while the Cannondale goes 50 miles in one shot the steel does it in 3 rides and since it's gone almost 35 years without a new chain I don't see it's that critical to replace it, but the Cannondale is a different beast.

It's a CAAD10-3 Ultegra gear set
 
Bike guys, any preference on chains? Looks like I need a new 10 speed chain for my Cannondale. I've never bought a chain the old steel still has the original chain from 1982 on it...and surprisingly it only has a bit more wear than the new bike. I think I will change the new one though because it's a more high performance bike and I take it on longer harder rides. They get similar amounts of riding a week but while the Cannondale goes 50 miles in one shot the steel does it in 3 rides and since it's gone almost 35 years without a new chain I don't see it's that critical to replace it, but the Cannondale is a different beast.

It's a CAAD10-3 Ultegra gear set
I like SRAM chains on all of my bikes. You can get their PC-1051 for around $20. No need for the hollow pin PC-1091's.
 
No issues with Shimano right?
None at all. I used a few Shimano chains on my 2015 11 speed bike at first, but then went to SRAM 11 speed chains. No difference in shifting, noise, etc. I love the master link.
Shimano is finally going to use one on their chains.
 
No issues with Shimano right?

for older bikes you need to make sure the chain is the right width for your model group. Current road bikes have 11 speeds on the back and the chains have been made narrower to accommodate that many gears (is it 12 yet?). This started at 5 speeds on the rear cogset in the 60s and 70s for real 10 speeds, and have slowly increased. Most recently it's been 9, 10, and 11 in the back.
 
Got my new stem, and fiddled with the new cockpit. It is coming along! Feels like this stem will be a good fit for me. Also tried on the new brake levers. Now have to stop at the bike shop and get a length of cable for the RD shift lever. Housing is still going to work. Also need to cable in the brakes. The front derailleur I can just put back on the end of the new bar.

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Had my bike fully serviced for really the first time since buying it last year. Pretty much just took care of the chain and drive train and road it last year. Had the hubs cleaned out and serviced, the bottom bracket, new chain, new housing for the button on my dropper post (the old one was a little broken), and had the shocks completely serviced, and nicely set up by a new guy in town who seems very good. Oh, and a new front (2.5 Minion DHF) and moved the front 2.4 Ardent that still has some life left to the rear to replace the original 2.3 that was toast. Was very excited, and was forced to just ride around the neighborhood, and the little cross track up the road from my house, just to feel it all. feels better than new! Better, because the shocks are set up better than they came stock, and the new tire situation feels awesome.

Between that, and all the cool bike stuff in town right now with the Ride festival (Idaho crit championship tonight in Ketchum, great racing!), had to finish the evening off by watching American Flyers tonight. Loved the cycling scenes and the now vintage 80's bikes. Hated the 80's cheese sound track. :)

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Just bought a new stem for my road bike, as one of the face bolts holding the handlebars broke. Figured it was time to replace the whole thing as it's around 8 years old. So I look for the same stem made by 3T and find out they're using TORX instead of Allen bolts. What the hell? So I needed to purchase a Torx key set and sockets for my torque wrench. What was the big problem that Torx solved over Allen? Also if I want the basic tools in my jersey pocket for longer trips I now need 2 types of wrenches. What a pain. (1st world problems I know)
 
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