I guess I’ve joined the not-very-exclusive Gibson club.

MAJOR MOJO

not sure what kind of serious repair shops you have around you....but.....
Lays Guitars, here in Akron is actually a Gibson and Fender authorized repair shop. they've done literally a hundred repairs like this that can't even be seen, when they are done. just sayin'

https://laysguitar.com/
 
A non-displaced fracture looks worse that it is...flood the break with thinned TiteBond, clamp it down tight, and leave it untouched for at least 2 days...
 
Mark Wein said:
How much do you thin the glue?
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Not too much...just enough so it flows easily...I usually add a drop or 2 of water to a glob, but I've never needed to use as much as you will...I'd probably do it in a few staged, mixing more as needed and adding it to the crack...what;s nice about it is thinning it out increases the "working time" so you don't need to feel pressured to work fast...

The most critical part is to make sure ALL of the surfaces and fibers are wet...there's going to be a lot of squeeze out when you clamp it so have a wet sponge handy to soak it up before it sticks to the neck finish...
 
It's an easy fix, but I'd hire it out. Just worrying about squeeze out would get me out of the workshop. If I had any thoughts about resale, "professionally repaired" really takes the edge off "snapped headstock". But glue is stronger than wood and the guitar should come out of this kicking ass.
 
Chicken Man said:
It's an easy fix, but I'd hire it out. Just worrying about squeeze out would get me out of the workshop. If I had any thoughts about resale, "professionally repaired" really takes the edge off "snapped headstock". But glue is stronger than wood and the guitar should come out of this kicking ass.
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I've had this guitar for 18 years at this point and since my wife picked it out for me (as well as being one of the best guitars that I own) it's never getting sold. My father-in-law is a master woodworker so I might enlist his help but this is actually within my skill set now that I'm looking at it with slightly less angry eyes.
 
jelloman said:
Not too much...just enough so it flows easily...I usually add a drop or 2 of water to a glob, but I've never needed to use as much as you will...I'd probably do it in a few staged, mixing more as needed and adding it to the crack...what;s nice about it is thinning it out increases the "working time" so you don't need to feel pressured to work fast...

The most critical part is to make sure ALL of the surfaces and fibers are wet...there's going to be a lot of squeeze out when you clamp it so have a wet sponge handy to soak it up before it sticks to the neck finish...
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Using an art paintbrush gets good coverage.
 
Mark Wein said:
I've had this guitar for 18 years at this point and since my wife picked it out for me (as well as being one of the best guitars that I own) it's never getting sold. My father-in-law is a master woodworker so I might enlist his help but this is actually within my skill set now that I'm looking at it with slightly less angry eyes.
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Good point is, if you're not ever going to sell it, fixing it yourself is no problem. It's also in a spot where you're not going to feel it, so finish work is optional.
 
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Knox in Box said:
Good point is, of your not ever going to sell it, fixing it yourself is no problem. It's also in a spot where you're not going to feel it, so finish work is optional.
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Agree. I'm pretty minimally handy, but my concerns would be cosmetic and resale, rather than getting the job done. If those are not issues, it's probably something every Gibson owner should do. It's like a microbus owner knowing how to rebuild an engine.
 
Ouch! Major mojo. Don't be too hard on yourself, shit happens, and guitars are meant to be played. Hopefully it can be fixed like new and it will sing with all its Gibson gusto and mahogany glory again.
 
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