Walnut Hollowbody Build

Elias Graves

Common misfit
It's time to begin my second guitar build. My experience with the tele taught me that it's no harder than making anything else, so this attempt will be a bit more ambitious.
I kept enough walnut to make a few more projects so ill be using some of it here, along with some maple and rosewood. The design for this one will incorporate some of the techniques I used on the tele but the design is going a whole different direction.
Some of you may remember when I owned an Epiphone Alleykat. That guitar and I had a love/hate relationship; I loved the size, shape, layout, construction style and so on but I never could get that thing to sound right on a bridge pickup and it eventually started to warp and I finally rid myself of it. Some of the build techniques of the Kat I will use, primarily the carved hollow back.

This is a Kat in production.

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And will be a guide of sorts for me as I go. Mine will have no center block, however, and the top is to be a little thicker as will the sides. The Kat was right at 1 3/4" thick at the side where I'm gonna go about 2" but with more contouring on the back for comfort.

I'm going to begin with some work on the neck. This is the chunk I saved for that purpose.

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There's plenty enough wood there for a set neck. The only downside this piece has is that it's neither truly quarter OR flat sawn. It was cut from the center of a branch or trunk and the growth rings are small and they curl around. This COULD increase the chances for warping (from like one in a million to one in a thousand...still pretty good odds.) I can probably be careful how I cut it and minimize the curl. The board is 25 years old and has likely warped all its gonna warp already...and it has some.
 
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First thing to do is get this log squared and cut to size. In the pic above, you'll see the right side of the board is all messed up. Something split off and left a big jaggedy side.

Here's that face after cutting it flat.

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The face you see here will be the bottom of the neck and the grain will look very different when I carve it.
 
With one side flat now, I can mark and cut the opposite side parallel. You can some warping with the tape in place. The end of the board closest to you requires less material be removed than the side away from you. Not by much, but that one end needs almost an extra 1/4" taken off to be flat again. It twisted a fair amount.

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After I get this sliced off, it will fit in the planer to finish to the correct thickness.
 
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More cutting. This side will be the top of the neck.

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I knew there was a split on this end. Wasn't sure how far it went but I'm ok. I need about 27".

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After cutting to length.
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A nasty little wound on the side. This will be cut off.

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Looks like I got all the split removed.

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Man, the grain is crazy deep in some places.

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There's three ways you can go: Seal and Sand, which of course means one or two rounds of sealing and sanding, or grain filler, which means you'll need to stain the filler to blend in, or just sealer which means you'll need a shit-ton of sanding and recoating and resanding, unless you want pore-dimples, which, of course will eventually collect hand crud (technical term).
 
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